Start: Chukhung, 4,749m above sea level.
Finish: Lobuche, 4,910m above sea level.
Date: March 20th, 2023Start in Chukhung: 6:00 a.m.
Distance: 12.41km Duration: 8:24h
Elevation gain: 1,018m ascent, 807m descent
Highest point: 5,535m above sea level
Change in altitude for sleeping: +161m Route profile: Due to the snow, the path was not clearly visible. Steep, narrow stretches of path up to the top of the pass, and the descent from the pass was slippery. Glacier crossing on stones.
Overnight stay: New EBC Camp, Lobuche
Weather: Fresh snow, dry, cloudyTemperature: 10° C
Fauna: various birds
Food: Oatmeal cookies & Snickers on the way, vegetarian noodle soup in the afternoon and vegetarian noodles for dinner

Elevation profile Chukhung - Kong Ma La Pass - Lobuche (own tracking via Garmin)

Today, the Kong Ma La Pass awaits me. With great excitement to continue the journey and a bit of uncertainty about the snow conditions at 5,535 meters above sea level, I start at 6:00 AM without breakfast. Alongside Monic and Matt, we first search for the entry point, eventually finding it behind Chukhung. Although it's not sunny, the mountains are sharply visible, and the Ama Dablam presents itself without clouds, continuing to be a breathtaking sight. Glancing into the cloud-covered valley, we can just make out Dingboche.

The trail takes us uphill, maintaining a slow but steady pace. The next segment appears to ascend steeply. We decide to take a break with a view of an icefall, enjoying a brief rest for drinks and snacks. Last night in Chukhung, I bought oat cookies that I now greatly savor for an energy boost. After refueling, we shoulder our backpacks again and tackle the steep section. For me, this is the most challenging stretch so far. The sun is heating up our backs, a narrow snow-covered path, knee-high steps, carrying around 11 kg on my back, all at an altitude of over 5,000 meters. I feel physically fit but struggle to breathe deeply.

In front of my favorite mountain Ama Dablam

Monic and Matt in front of the Ama Dablam

We pass a few other hikers. Looking back, I spot a yellow backpack in the white landscape. Giuseppe is only a few meters behind us. The steep section opens into a plateau where we get a bit lost. Eventually, we realize that we're not making progress and turn around. That happens when you follow footprints in the snow instead of the map/GPS. Back on the right path, we hike up to the next plateau. Despite the clouds, the view is spectacular. I now recognize the Chukhung Ri, the summit of which I stood beneath just two days ago. It's great to be able to name individual peaks now and recognize them each time. I traverse the Kong Ma Glacier (only knowing it's a glacier from the map) and now see the Kong Ma La Pass. High above, colorful prayer flags flutter in the wind. At the base of the pass lies the frozen Kong Ma La Lake. I try to spot the path to the pass from a distance, but in vain. Then I see Giuseppe with his yellow backpack, observing how he climbs into the rock face and ascends to the pass. Thank you! So I make my way to the entry point, using both hands in the first few meters as the ground is slippery with many stones. Concentrating, I ascend slowly and can already hear Giuseppe and Josh in the distance. They greet me at the pass (5,535m above sea level) at 11:00 AM with loud applause. It's wonderful to meet them up there again. How Josh took the route is still a mystery to me. He started after me in Chukhung but never passed us.

Monic and Matt with a view of Lake Kong Ma La and the pass in the middle of the background

View from Kong Ma La Pass towards Chukhung

The feeling of reaching the first pass is tremendous. A short while later, Monic and Matt also reach the pass, and we welcome them warmly with applause. Clouds continue to pass by, but glimpses of the sun and even a bit of blue sky appear. It's a wonderful moment. I enjoy some oat cookies, drink, and inspect the descent. It's steep, covered in snow. Although I have micro spikes in my backpack, I decide not to put them on. I should have. The snow is quite slippery, and I have to concentrate to descend without slipping. Josh, who turns out to be Speedy Gonzales, is already gone after a few minutes. Giuseppe and I maintain the same pace and walk together all the way to Lobuche. We could see our destination from the pass. Besides the descent, the massive Khumbu Glacier separates us from the settlement. So we continue downhill until we reach a depression, from which we ascend again to the glacier's edge.

View from Kong Ma La Pass - Lobuche lies in the sun

The Khumbu Glacier makes a powerful impression on me. Although it's not particularly long at 12 km, in certain places, it's up to a kilometer wide and is famous for its dangerous icefall that Everest and Lhotse climbers must navigate. Giuseppe and I initially struggle to find the right entry point, but GPS and a map guide us. There are few reliable trail markings in this section. I spot just one or two poles that I interpret as trail markers, but they wouldn't be visible in bad weather. This part of the glacier is covered with both small and massive stones, occasionally revealing glacier lakes and gleaming white or blue ice walls. I can feel and hear it come alive—stones tumbling down, squeaking, and groaning. There's movement here! It's a stark reminder of how small we are amidst these natural forces. We navigate through very large stones, making our way across the Khumbu. The clouds are now moving in rapidly. By 2:30 PM, after about an hour, we reach the glacier's edge just before Lobuche. What strikes me first is the "many" people walking on the classic trail to Lobuche. This is the path of the Everest Base Camp trek, the most commonly taken route in the Khumbu region, leading directly from Dingboche to Lobuche without crossing a pass.

Passing by a man throwing stones at his horses (wtf), we walk to the New EBC-Camp Lodge, where we meet Josh again and each get a room. After freshening up, I enjoy my lunch at 3:50 PM—a delicious vegetarian noodle soup. Eventually, Matt and Monic join us, deciding to spend the night here. Next to our lodge is the 'Highest Bakery in the World.' Excited about the prospect of tasty treats, Matt, Giuseppe, and I make a detour. However, when we see the prices for a small brownie (1,000 NPR), we quickly step back outside. The lodge is now filling up, and the first guests swiftly secure a spot right in front of the stove. I decide to stay in the common room, study the map, and read. At 7:00 PM, I fortify myself with vegetarian noodles for the next day. The evening with Josh and Giuseppe is once again wonderfully entertaining. I refill my bottle with hot water and take it as a makeshift hot water bottle into my sleeping bag. After such an eventful and long day, I fall asleep happily and quickly. Kong Ma La Pass - you were spectacular!