Start: Chukhung, 4,749m above sea level
Destination: Island Peak Base Camp, 5,080m above sea level
Date: March 19, 2023
Start in Chukhung: 10:05 AM
Distance: 14.03 km
Duration: 5:05 hours
Elevation Gain: 523m ascent, 509m descent
Highest Point: 5,103m above sea level
Change in Elevation for Sleeping: -
Trail Profile: Simple path often covered with gravel or stones
Accommodation: Khangri Resort, Chukhung
Weather: Cloudy in the morning, some clearing just before noon, then becoming heavily overcast with snowfall
Temperature: 11°C, considerably cooler after noon
Fauna: Snowcocks (Tibetan Snow Partridge) at the Island Peak Base Camp
Food: Porridge with cinnamon for breakfast, two Snickers bars on the way, a spring roll with potatoes in the afternoon, Dal Bhat for dinner

Elevation profile Chukhung - Island Peak Base Camp - Chukhung (own tracking via Garmin)

Over time, it seems I am getting used to the poor nights - multiple awakenings, headaches, difficulty falling back asleep, and a chilly nose. After such bad nights, I try to approach the day more comfortably and not stress myself out. Whether I am an hour faster or slower doesn't matter to me here, fortunately. The sports watch is running, but only the weather influences my pace. Let's see if I can take this calmness back home.

The night brought fresh snow, and I wake up in the freshly snow-covered Chukhung. Like in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche, I stay here for two nights as well. So, today marks another acclimatization day. I would like to go to the Island Peak Base Camp. Since it's no longer snowing but still heavily overcast, I sit in the common room at 8:00 AM and start walking after having porridge for breakfast at 10:00 AM.

The recommended Khangri Resort in Chukhung

The first hour, I walk through the clouds, but eventually, I can see a bit further. The trail initially follows the Lhotse Glacier (which I can't see due to the clouds) and later bends into a vast plain. According to the map, somewhere, there should be Lake Imja Tsho, likely hiding behind the massive rock formations. I ascend, convinced that I will see the lake from above. I am mistaken. No lake in sight anywhere. So, I descend again and walk a good distance further. I treat myself to a Snickers, feeling tired and eager to reach the Base Camp. On the way, I hear and see some snowcocks (Tibetan Snow Partridges) shortly afterward. My motivation instantly rises. From a distance, I can already see the yellow tents of the Base Camp. I had planned to take a short break at the camp to eat my second Snickers (yes, today I am very well supplied). However, the wind is blowing so strongly that sitting down is out of the question. I must keep moving. So, I immediately head back but make a short detour. After all, I still want to see the lake! Somewhere along the way, I try my luck and walk across the scree up to the ridge. And indeed - the lake reveals itself to me in impressive beauty, covered with thick ice and snow. I sit down and enjoy the absolute solitude, the silence, the brief moment without wind, the opportunity to observe how the clouds move, and to hear the ice on the lake come alive. It crackles and crunches in all corners. Stones keep falling onto the lake, creating muffled sounds. A very impressive moment that I consciously internalize. How small I am in the midst of this scenery.

On the left is the Lhotse Glacier, on the right is Lake Imja Tsho

Island Peak Base Camp, 5,080m above sea level

Looking back from Island Peak Base Camp. To the left above the ridge is Lake Imja Tsho

Several ptarmigans (Tibet king chicken) can be seen

Feeling quite tired, I begin the journey back to Chukhung. Throughout the day, I encounter only six people. Among them is the man from Poland, whom I met on Nangkartshang near Dingboche. He tells me about his colleague who fell ill due to altitude sickness and had to be flown out of Dingboche by helicopter. Now, he wants to climb Island Peak alone. Unfortunately, I don't know if he succeeded.

Back in Chukhung, I quickly replenish my calorie deficit after a wash-up. For a late lunch, I order a spring roll, some potato wedges, and garlic soup. The stove is lit in the lodge, and soon everyone gathers again. Stories of the day's experiences, tales of poor sleep, headaches, discomfort, cravings for a juicy apple, discussions about daily life back home, and dreams of adventures are shared. Once again, it's a wonderful exchange between people from all corners of the world. Some are very skeptical about whether Kongma La Pass is passable in this weather. The fresh snow deters them. However, Matt, Monic, Joshua, Giuseppe, and I agree that we want to tackle it the next morning.

So, I enjoy the evening in this fantastic group and crawl into my sleeping bag at 8:00 PM, read a few pages, and soon let my eyelids fall.