Namibia Day 3: Canyon Road Campsite - Amanzi River Camp (via Gamchab Trail to Orange River)
Start: Canyon Road Campsite
Destination: Amanzi River Camp
Region: Kharas (Orange River)
Distance: 200 km
Duration: 4 hours
Road Profile: Gravel road up to the Gamchab Trail, the trail itself is off-road and only for 4x4 vehicles, from Aussenkehr the road is tarred
Accommodation: Amanzi River Camp
Our Rating: 6/10
Fauna: Spotted Eagle-Owl, Baboons, Antelopes, Zebras, Ostriches, Yellow-billed Hornbill, several other birds at the Orange River
Shopping: -
Food: Muesli with Passion Fruit, Toast Bread, Peanut Butter, Banana, Potatoes with Vegetables
Just before sunrise, we wake up and go for a small hike before breakfast. We walk up the hill right in front of our pitch. The view from the hill down over the vast, uninhabited landscape in the cool morning air almost gives us a mystical feeling. Apart from the road and the campsite, there are no signs of civilization. No power poles, no other roads, no houses. We just stand there, absorbing the situation and the rays of the sun. A single quiver tree stands majestically on the crest, defying the dryness. Although it looks barren at first glance, a closer look reveals that the vegetation here is extremely diverse. Different small bushes, grasses, and various types of stones can be discovered.
Morning Hike with a View Over the Canyon Road Campsite
Quiver Tree in a Mystical Atmosphere
Back at our pitch, we sit down for breakfast. Muesli with passion fruit, coffee, toast with peanut butter, and mashed bananas taste delicious. Meanwhile, we are entertained by a black bird that watches us intently as we eat, delighting in every crumb of bread.
Spectator at Breakfast
We fill both tanks right at our campsite, check the oil level, and are ready for our destination today, the Orange River in the far south of Namibia, just a stone's throw from South Africa. The route promises plenty of off-road action, as we plan to take the Gamchab Trail, a dried-up riverbed. Our journey first takes us south on the D324, then we turn onto the C10 towards Ais-Ais. Later, we switch to the D316 and finally follow the D207 in a westerly direction. This is not the fastest way to the Orange River, but we definitely want to take the Gamchab Trail. The surroundings now appear even more deserted, the plain even vaster, and the roads sometimes go straight for several kilometers. We rarely encounter another vehicle. In the middle of nowhere, we come upon a road construction site. The two workers have every inch of skin covered to protect themselves from the sun and manually turn the signs from GO to STOP. After a short wait, we are able to continue. Soon, the tarred road changes to a gravel track. All we see is sand, rock, small bushes, and quiver trees.
On the Way to the Trail
Road Shortly Before the Start of the Trail
The Gamchab Trail starts on the right side at the coordinates 28°12.640'S 17°26.313'E and can be driven at a leisurely pace (walking speed) by less experienced off-road drivers during the dry season. For us, this is a true adventure, as we rarely sit in a 4x4 vehicle and undertake such journeys. Initially covered with small stones and sand, the trail leads us into a gorge. As the passenger, I try to identify the best possible path. I frequently get out to find the way. Nevertheless, we have to turn around twice because we can't get through. In the gorge, the stones and bumps get bigger and skill is required. The drive is great fun and occasionally, I watch from outside as Christian maneuvers the camper over rocks. We had planned to eat lunch in the gorge, but it's about 30 °C there, and sandflies are swarming around. So we prefer to postpone it. In total, we spend about 2 hours on the trail. Finally, the end of the trail leads into the C13, from where we drive south to the Orange River.
Route of Gamchab-Trail
Gamchab-Trail
Gamchab-Trail
Beginning of the Trail
The Vehicle Proved Itself on the Trail
Drive in the Riverbed
In Aussenkehr, an extensive grape-growing area, we catch our first glimpse of the Orange River. It seems almost surreal to see a river carrying so much water in such a dry region. The lush green vines form an incredible contrast to the desert-like surroundings. The riverside area with its trees and lush shrubs stretches out like a long oasis. The road through the grape-growing area is tarred. We see many workers in the plantations. Here, grapes can be harvested 3-5 weeks earlier than in all other vineyard areas. The perfect conditions for growing table grapes were recognized by a man in the 1980s, who established this huge agricultural operation. During harvest time, up to 18,000 seasonal workers are said to live here. In addition to table grapes, mangos, lemons, and dates are also cultivated.
First Glimpse of the Orange River
Passing by tin huts, which serve as temporary homes for seasonal workers, we continue our journey to our campsite, Amanzi River Trails. We can place our camper right by the Orange River.
The Amazi Camp is located directly on the Orange River and offers all the amenities a camper needs. The pitches have relatively little privacy by Namibian standards (hence the 6 out of 10 rating), but this facilitates easy conversation with other travelers. However, the proximity to the water and the view of the rocky mountain landscape on the South African side more than compensate for this.
Our Camp Close to the River
Playing cards are always a must for us
Orange River
It's already afternoon, and we cook up some leftovers from last night. Today we have minced meat, tomato sauce, and pasta. Enjoying the meal with a view of the river, the outlook is wonderful. Directly opposite us, we look onto South Africa. Numerous birds perch on the rocks or flutter in the air. We take a small tour around the campsite (which isn't large) and can see several remnants of the flood that caused so much destruction this year. By now, the river has returned to its normal water level, and we decide to rent a canoe. We paddle on the Orange River (which is quite cold) until sunset. First against the current, then letting ourselves drift slowly downstream. It's a beautiful experience amidst such tranquility. The sky turns into a colorful spectacle again today.
After we find the exit back to our campsite, I enjoy a warm shower. The sun has already disappeared behind the horizon, and when I return to our camper, I see that a large owl has perched on a pole nearby. Neither of us had ever seen such an animal up close before. It was beautiful to observe this Spotted Eagle-Owl from such a short distance. Eventually, it flew off into the dark night.
We aren't very hungry after the late lunch, but we still prepare some fajitas and enjoy dinner in the light of our flashlights. The Milky Way appears over the river, visible to the naked eye. Simply breathtaking. I snap a few photos of it, and after reveling in the night sky, we retire for the night. A soft 'howl' from the owl lulls us to sleep…
Canoeing on the Orange River
Canoeing on the Orange River
Owl at the Campsite
Stargazing: Milky Way
