Start: Kalahari Anib Campsite
Destination: Fish River Canyon / Canyon Road Campsite
Date: 23.08.2022
Region: Kharas (Fish River Canyon)
Distance: 393 km to Canyon Road Campsite, 495 km including Fish River Canyon
Duration: 4 hours
Road Profile: Mostly tarred roads, the last quarter is a gravel road
Accommodation: Canyon Road Campsite
Our Rating: 8/10
Fauna: Antelopes, Dingoes, Baboons, Ostriches, many birds
Shopping: Gas at Canyon Road Campsite Gas Station
Food: Muesli, Bread, Peanut Butter, Bananas, Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce

Route from Kalahari Anib Campsite to Canyon Road Campsite (Fish River Canyon)

My first awakening in Africa. After a very restful and quiet night, we wake up to icy temperatures. Our thermometer shows an indoor temperature of 2 °C. No matter, I stay a bit longer in the warm sleeping bag, enjoying the dawn. Absolute silence, until the first birds awaken and start chirping. I blink sleepily towards the sun, relishing this slow awakening. As cliché as it sounds, here in Namibia, we will adopt the same rhythm as nature. Waking up when the birds start singing and going to bed when they stop. After a lengthy breakfast in the sun with coffee and peanut butter toast, I'm gripped by a need to move. I come up with a little workout and jump and sweat at our campsite. Following the subsequent cold shower, I'm definitely awake. Although the sun is warming by now, the wind is icy and mean. So, we pack up, check the tire pressure, and set off southwards around 10:00.

From the beginning of our trip planning, it was clear to us that we wanted to travel to the farthest south of the country. We had not yet visited the Fish River Canyon, so it was a must for us to marvel at the second-largest canyon in the world. We drive under a cloudless sky, and in the first hour, a group of baboons crosses the road in front of us. They are quite large! After lunch, the road changes to a dirt road. The vegetation is very diverse. Coming from an endlessly appearing plain, we can make out the first mountains on the horizon. The colors of the sand, the stones, and the bushes keep changing, and huge stone formations rise from nowhere.

As we get closer to Mariental, it becomes greener. Huge plantations lie along the Fish River. For a few meters, we even drive through water. Just past Mariental, we spot the first ostrich. Proud and elegant, it stands by the roadside, eyeing us suspiciously. More sightings follow during the drive. Just before the campsite, we also catch a glimpse of a herd of zebras. The journey to the Canyon Road Campsite flies by, even though we cover nearly 400 kilometers. We check in at the reception and get our pitch. The campsite welcomes its guests with beautiful, rusted vintage cars, set in a well-maintained garden area with quiver trees - a true wonderland of automotive nostalgia. In addition, there was a trendy bar, a small museum, and even a gas station on the premises. The surrounding hills offer wonderful hiking trails, perfect for stargazing at night.

However, we immediately head towards the Fish River Canyon. We want to visit it today.

Aufwachen im Zelt in der Natur in Namiba — Waking Up in the Midst of Nature

At the Fish River Canyon's gate, we pay the entrance fee (approximately 10 USD per person) at the small park hut. Remember your license plate number, as it is required at every gate and campsite. From the entrance, we continue driving towards the canyon. A majestic gorge unfolds before us. Far below, we can discern the eponymous river flowing with very little water through the canyon. Hard to believe, but we are the only visitors! No people as far as the eye can see, a stark contrast to the bustling Grand Canyon in the USA. The dimensions of the canyon are simply breathtaking, and the landscape seems almost otherworldly. There are multi-day guided hikes (85 km) through the gorge, but these must be booked in advance and are not available all year round due to the heat. The hiking trail is closed today, and climbing into the gorge alone is strictly forbidden. So, we enjoy the canyon from above. A path leads to the viewpoints Hikers Point, Fish River Viewpoint, and Swaelbron Lookout. With our 4x4 vehicle, these are easy to reach. There are other impressive viewpoints, the routes to which can be found on Google Maps. Since it is now late afternoon, we decide to drive back to the campsite. Driving in the dark is best avoided!

Strasse zum Fish River Canyon — Road Shortly After the Fish River Canyon

Einsamer Fisheriver Canyon in Namiba — I could hardly grasp the magnitude and the solitude

Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail Start — Start for Hikes in the Fish River Canyon (Only with a Guide!)

So we arrive back at the campsite around 6:00 PM. While Christian goes for a small evening stroll on a nearby hill, I prepare Fajitas. I enjoy cooking in foreign countries and especially outdoors over a gas stove. It always involves some improvisation, and the African spices I bought for the sauce are perfect, hitting just the right spot for my taste. I open our South African bag-in-box wine and pour us two glasses. The sun slowly sets on the horizon, and the sky glows in the typical African red hue that we don't know in this intensity in Europe. That typical Namibia feeling overcomes us. We feel totally relaxed and safe. Satisfied, we sit under the stars, listening to the sounds of animals and enjoying the unique atmosphere. After I've taken a few astro photos, it's time to wash up in the washhouse, and then it's already time for the roof tent. Again, we are in bed before 9:00 PM, watching the stars from there. In this peaceful environment, we drift into a deep sleep within minutes.