Start: Namche Bazaar, 3,432m above sea level.
Destination: Lukla, 2,860m above sea level.
Date: 28th March 2023.
Start in Namche Bazaar: 08:30 AM.
Distance: 19.52 km.
Duration: 6 hours and 37 minutes.
Elevation Gain: 727m ascent, 1,305m descent.
Highest Point: 3,432m above sea level.
Elevation Change for Sleeping: -572m.
Trail Profile: Simple.
Accommodation: Khumbu Lodge.
Weather: Fresh snow, sunny and warm; clouds rolled in around noon, followed by rain and a significant drop in temperature.
Temperature: Up to 18°C.
Flora: Rhododendron, forests; it's green again.
Fauna: Goats, yaks, mules, birds, butterflies, etc.
Food: Porridge, yak cheese, momos, peanut cookies, a beer, and an Everest Burger in Lukla.

Elevation profile Namche Bazaar - Lukla (own tracking via Garmin)

Final day! The last day on the Three Passes Trek has arrived. Well, now I'm feeling sentimental. The sun is shining, the fresh snow is sparkling, and everything indicates that today's weather will be a crowning finale. So, I pack my backpack for the last time and enjoy a pancake with jam and a hot cup of tea in the cold lodge. Giuseppe soon joins, and we get ready. He indirectly knows the two lodge owners through his employer. They are incredibly warm-hearted and even give us an apple and a scarf to accompany us on the journey.

Shouldering our backpacks, grabbing a few delicious peanut cookies from the Everest Bakery, and off we go. About 20 km lie ahead of me. I want to walk directly to Lukla. I will say goodbye to Giuseppe shortly before Lukla as he plans to go all the way to Surke. He'll take the bus down to Kathmandu.

I already know the trail, and near Namche, it is lightly covered with a layer of snow. The sun warms up quickly, casting everything in the most beautiful light. I'm descending almost slower than I ascended. I want to savor every meter intensely and imprint everything in my memory—the atmosphere, the smell, the sounds, the colors. It's a pure pleasure walk.

One noticeable thing: There are many, many more people on the trail than three weeks ago. When I walked up to Namche Bazaar back then, I encountered only a few other tourists. Now, numerous large groups are coming towards me. This is especially evident at the checkpoint for the national park entrance. I was alone back then; today, tourists are almost stepping on each other's toes. I am very glad to have traveled just before the peak season.

Light-footedly, I get to marvel at the scenery from this perspective once again—the crossing of the Hillary Bridge, the sandy paths through the forest, the paved paths along the Dudh Kosi River, or the pretty little settlements. It's a beautiful hike.

Unfortunately, I have a little mishap on a bridge. When a heavily loaded porter comes towards me, I take a step aside. As it's a bit wobbly and he needs a bit more space, I slide my left foot through the bridge net and find myself on the ground. My knee hits the metallic bridge floor hard, and pain shoots through me. I limp to the end of the bridge and clean my bloody knee. It will hurt for several more weeks. Well, better now than when going up. So, I continue with a slightly pained expression until I eventually meet Giuseppe (we both walk at our own pace). Slowly, we feel hungry, and we sit outside at the Karma Friendship Lodge & Restaurant in Toktok. A highly recommended small restaurant. The momos are fantastic, and the hosts are very friendly. The tables are right by the roadside, allowing us to observe hikers, mules, and yaks on their way up. We chat with other local guests, some of whom have even worked as hut assistants in Switzerland. Once again: The world is small.

I'm in a T-shirt for the first time. A few kilometers before Lukla, the weather changes. Clouds move in, the sky darkens, and soon the first raindrops fall. We are lucky. We get caught in a few drops, but we quickly find shelter. In a small café, we find a spot outside under a plastic roof just in time. The rain falls with immense strength now. A tropical rain comes to mind—if only it were a bit warmer. I'm now wearing a sweater, jacket, scarf, gloves, and a hat again. It quickly cooled down. The warm masala tea and a few peanut cookies and yak cheese we bought along the way help against the cold. We sit on the plastic chairs for quite a while, watching a yak find a dry spot across the way and hikers braving the rain, with or without rain gear.

At some point, the rain subsides a bit, and we continue hiking. The trail is now a big puddle. At the junction to Sukhe, I say goodbye to Giuseppe. It was great that we got to know each other, and together with Josh, Matt, and Monic, we formed such a cool group. However, it's also nice to walk the last kilometers alone. A thousand thoughts race through my mind. The strongest one, though, is gratitude. What a privilege to explore this corner of the earth. I will return home with many lasting memories.

Just before dark, I arrive in Lukla. Mules block the way, the small shops entice with equipment for sale, and the children jump from puddle to puddle. I spontaneously decide on the Khumbu Lodge (according to locals, the Alpine Lodge is also good!). I had been looking forward to a quiet evening. After dinner, however, a group celebrates the end of their tour. Rightly so, but I wouldn't have minded a bit more peace, as the bass from the very loud music pulsed through the room until midnight. However, I ate well. After a quick wash, I enjoyed tea, an Everest Burger, and an Everest beer! Done—225.8 km and 13,678 meters up. Awesome! I send a few greetings home and watch the group dance and celebrate. Well done!

Travel from Lukla to Kathmandu via Ramechhap

Departure day: Today, I am flying back from Lukla to the lowlands. My day begins at 05:15 am. I have breakfast at the lodge and then stroll to the airport. A beautiful sunrise awaits me, with the mountain peaks glowing golden. There is already bustling activity at the small airport. A little after 06:00, the first plane lands and shortly after, takes the first batch of tourists. The good weather window is being utilized. Bad weather is forecasted from tomorrow, and generally, flights are often only possible early in the morning. My flight is scheduled for 06:40 am. After passport and ticket control, a policeman searches my backpack, and then I'm allowed to proceed to the waiting hall. From the open window, I can observe landings, take-offs, and the hustle on the runway. Everything is moving briskly. Soon, my flight is called. I'm lucky to grab a seat by the window (the quicker, the better). This way, I'll be able to catch a glimpse of the peaks. The engine starts, it hums and vibrates. The descending runway is now in front of us. Full throttle! It pushes us into the seats, and quickly, we no longer have the 527m takeoff runway beneath us. We are over the cliff and flying away. High out of the Khumbu Valley. It's a picture-perfect flight. The mountain peaks are clearly visible, and I catch a last glimpse of Lhotse and Mount Everest, among others. Thank you, thank you, thank you! What I experienced in this area is unique. A few tears come up after all.

I thoroughly enjoy the flight. I look down at numerous small settlements winding along the hills. After about 20-30 minutes, the flight is unfortunately already over. We are descending over Ramechhap and land somewhere in the middle of nowhere. I don't know yet how I'll get back to Kathmandu from here. When disembarking, I see two women receiving their backpacks and ask them how they will continue their journey. They have already arranged a taxi through their hotel. The driver checks briefly with the hotel if he can take me too. For NPR 450, I'm on board. So begins the journey to the 130km distant Kathmandu. Not far on the map, but on these roads, it will take us a little over four hours. I enjoy the ride on bumpy roads, passing rural life. Unfortunately, my co-passenger doesn't tolerate the roads well and has to throw up several times. Fortunately, she feels a bit better towards the end of the journey, and we reach the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu. After dropping off the two women, the taxi driver takes me to my hotel. Wonderful how that worked out. After check-in, I peel out of my hiking clothes and enjoy my first proper shower after 18 days. What a relief! Since I'm now in Kathmandu a bit earlier than planned, I have 3.5 days to explore the city. I'm excited!