Date: March 29 to April 2, 2023
Cost of cab ride to the airport: NPR 600 - 800, depending on your negotiating skills.
Tourist area: Thamel with many restaurants and even more outdoor stores.

Do’s

Treating oneself to a massage is a delightful experience. I had the pleasure of lying down for a 90-minute session at the Zen Spa Healing Centre, indulging in a 'Zen Healing Massage / Trekkers Massage.' The cost for 90 minutes is NPR 5000, and for 120 minutes, it's NPR 6500. Highly recommended!

Exploring Kathmandu on foot is a wonderful way to immerse oneself in the city. Except for the airport, I avoided cabs and discovered the streets on foot. Even the slightly more distant Buddha Stupa is easily reachable on foot. It's delightful to stroll through narrow alleyways, purchase Tibetan bread directly from street vendors (NPR 10), and experience the vibrant hustle and bustle. You'll discover numerous colorful corners, temples, and, in the early morning, bustling markets.

For those who appreciate books and enjoy taking the time to wander through countless bookshelves, Pilgrims Book House is the place to be. Thousands of pages are spread across three or four floors, featuring novels, travel books, spiritual literature, and children's books. It was my chosen retreat when a sudden downpour occurred.

Don’t

Keep your composure. Yes, Kathmandu is noisy, dirty, and packed with an endless stream of people. Merchants in Thamel will constantly approach you, power outages are regular, motorcyclists navigate narrowly past you, and patience is often required. Enjoy the uniqueness of it all, the exploration, immersion, and especially the very friendly and warm encounters.

Accommodation

I stayed at Hotel Nepali Ghar in the Thamel district. It is situated on a quieter street, offering respite from the city's noise. They appreciate direct bookings through their website. I opted not to include breakfast, as I preferred to dine somewhere in the city. The rooms are very nice and clean. I recommend this hotel and would book it again.

A Small Oasis

The Garden of Dreams is a small oasis amidst the bustling city. I spent an entire afternoon there with a pen, notebook, and Kindle. Sitting under the shade of trees, discovering squirrels hopping across the meadows, and observing the diverse crowd, from couples to teenagers creating TikTok videos or people admiring the variety of plants. A truly beautiful spot.

Temples & Stupas

Temples are scattered at every turn in Kathmandu. Sometimes a street winds around them, and at other times, they are tucked away in courtyards. The most famous stupa in Kathmandu is the Boudha Stupa. Located east of the Thamel district, it is also accessible on foot. Take your time, for example, secure a window seat at Himalayan Coffee Java right by the stupa and enjoy the view of the lively surroundings. The UNESCO World Heritage site, Durbar Square (the square in front of the former royal palace of the Kathmandu Kingdom), houses more than 50 temples, pagodas, and palaces. Unfortunately, some were severely damaged in the 2015 earthquake. To move around the area, a fee of NPR 1000 is required. Another beautiful stupa is the Swayambhunath Stupa. This Buddhist temple complex is one of the oldest in the world and is located on a hill west of Thamel. It is also reachable on foot. The ascent involves climbing several steps, passing vendors selling candles, while monkeys leap through the treetops. From the top, there is a great view of Kathmandu (if the smog isn't too thick).

Food

Food in Kathmandu was a culinary delight! Perhaps it was because I had mainly been eating rice and lentils for the past 17 days, but Kathmandu genuinely surprised me with its diverse and delicious offerings. At any time of the day and for every craving, the city had just the right thing. I particularly enjoyed breakfast and dinner at Yala Cafe & Coffee Shop. At OR2K restaurant, you dine on the floor, comfortably cushioned with many pillows, and in the evening, you can enjoy a very cozy and intimate atmosphere. Forest Plate satisfied my love for salads, and Old Everest Mo:Mo Center was a bustling spot for a quick bite. You pay at the entrance (NPR 140 = CHF 1!) for 10 momos (no vegetarian option). These are steamed on huge plates, and after serving, a waiter comes by to pour spicy sauce over them. Everything happens quickly. The decor is minimalistic with a few wooden tables, folding benches, and you're back outside in 10 minutes. An experience! Newa MoMo Restaurant also offered delicious momos (even though a few rats were running around). I returned twice to Lassi House near Durbar Square. Himalayan Coffee Java, reminiscent of Starbucks, is present in many corners. Comfortable chairs, a friendly atmosphere, good coffee, and the feeling that you can stay for hours. They also serve breakfast, and the muesli was top-notch! It provided a great view near the Buddha Stupa and Durbar Square. In case of rain or when I wanted to read, I made myself comfortable in one of these cafes. I also enjoyed my meals at Rosemary Kitchen and Coffee Shop. The few kilos I lost in the mountains were almost back on after 3.5 days in Kathmandu.