Annina Berweger

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Namibia Day 9: Naukluft Campsite - Swakopmund

Start: Naukluft Campsite
Destination: Erongo
Region: Hardap
Distance: 339 km
Duration: 4 h 30 min
Route Profile: Mostly gravel roads (paved road from Walvis Bay)
Accommodation: Swakopmund Strand Hotel
Our Rating: 8/10
Wildlife: Antelopes, various birds, helmeted guineafowls, impalas, kudu, oryx, reed cormorant, ostrich with two chicks
Shopping: Superspar Swakopmund
Food: Muesli, bread, peanut butter, banana, snacks, oysters, sushi, shrimp

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Our destination today is a return to civilization - Swakopmund. We are already looking forward to a long, relaxing shower and a real bed that isn’t covered in desert dust. After a week in the wilderness, fine sand is everywhere in the car, and even multiple daily cleanings help only a little. While it isn't really bothersome, we are still excited about the seaside town and a night in a hotel.

We start our journey at 7:30 AM and soon have to make an emergency stop. A kudu jumps onto the road in front of us. Whew… that was close! In a curve, we notice that our table, which is attached above the driver's cabin, is slipping out. The mount is broken, so we transport the table in the back of the camper from now on. The drive to Swakopmund takes us first over gravel roads that later transition into paved roads. After about an hour of driving, we stop in Solitaire at the legendary Moose McGregor’s Bakery. It is said to serve the best apple pie in all of Africa. We can't miss that. The apple pies are delicious and, along with the coffee we ordered, make for a tasty, sweet breakfast. Whether they are actually the best in Africa remains uncertain.

We enjoy the drive to Walvis Bay. Until shortly before we arrive, we encounter almost no other vehicles. Initially, the vegetation glows in vibrant yellow tones, but as we approach Walvis Bay, it becomes increasingly gray. Upon entering Walvis Bay, we spot numerous flamingos on the left side. We stop right by the sea and take a short walk. However, the wind is so strong that we quickly retreat back to our camper. We drive through Walvis Bay and then head towards Swakopmund. The road runs directly along the sea. There are a few new apartment complexes, but mostly there is still a lot of sand, a rough sea, and many fishermen trying their luck from the shore. We make another brief stop at a secluded beach. What a contrast to all the touristy coastal spots worldwide, where the beaches are usually crowded.

A Cozy Morning Drive in the Sun

Entrance to Solitaire

Solitaire

Moose McGregor’s Bakery in Solitaire

The famous apple pie in Solitaire (Moose McGregor’s Bakery)

Ostrich in sight

Cactus

The road is all ours.

The beaches on the way to Swakopmund are completely deserted. The road is visible on the right side.

We checked in at the beautiful Strand Hotel Swakopmund at 1:30 PM. Situated right on the beachfront promenade, it offers three restaurants, a café, and wellness treatments. It feels a bit strange to check into a luxurious 4-star hotel so dusty after a week in the wilderness. However, we are warmly welcomed by the hotel staff who are very friendly and professional, reflecting the hospitality of Namibians once again.

At the reception, we inquire about a dinner reservation. The hotel restaurant has excellent reviews but is unfortunately fully booked. Instead, they reserve a table for us at the Jetty Restaurant, which is not far away.

Our room is spacious, clean, and offers a direct view of the beach and the sea. Now comes the long-awaited, indulgent shower - oh, how refreshing it is! Afterwards, we enjoy a late lunch on the hotel terrace, featuring a cheeseburger and Beef & Jalapeño Fritters. They are absolutely delicious! In Swakopmund, the German influence is unmistakable; we leisurely savor a cold beer brewed according to the German Purity Law in the sun.

A stroll along the beach promenade and through the streets completes this afternoon. While only a few buildings in the old style remain, the city still retains a distinct flavor from the German colonial era. Many streets bear German names, adding to the charm. Near the beach, there's a small market where we admire local craftsmanship. The town offers a variety of activities. We had hoped to go on a hot air balloon ride, but unfortunately, the weather the next day is not suitable.

At 7 PM, we gather in the hotel lobby as a transfer to the Jetty Restaurant is arranged for us. Although we would have preferred to walk (it's only a 10-minute walk away), we join two elderly gentlemen from the USA for the ride. During the short but highly entertaining journey, they tell us about their travels, which have lasted several weeks and have taken them across Africa in the highest luxury class, including visits to the mountain gorillas in Uganda. That's something I would also love to do someday.

The Jetty restaurant is situated on a pier, offering stunning panoramic views of the sea through large windows. It's bustling yet has a cozy atmosphere. Known for its seafood (local oysters are said to be legendary), we decide to try them as an appetizer. While they aren't exactly my favorite, they are well-regarded. For the main course, we indulge in salmon sushi, jumbo prawns, and a bottle of white wine – a delightful change from our camping meals. We end the evening with a leisurely walk back to the hotel, enjoying the sound of the ocean waves. Falling asleep surrounded by the gentle ocean sounds and the soft, fluffy bedsheets, we feel content and happy.

An afternoon and a night in Swakopmund were perfect for us. However, for those eager to try one of the many available activities, adding another night would be ideal.

The view from our hotel room overlooking the beach in Swakopmund

Well-deserved beer

Room view

Walking around Swakopmund: Helmeted Guineafowl

Seaside promenade in Swakopmund

View of Swakopmund

On the way to the Jetty Restaurant

The Jetty

Starter: Oysters

Starter: Sushi

Night fishing in Swakopmund