Start: Swakopmund
Destination: Cape Cross, Madisa Camp
Region: Kunene
Distance: 120 km to Cape Cross, 244 km to Madisa Camp
Duration: 1 h 30 min to Cape Cross, 3 h to Madisa Camp
Route Profile: Paved road to Cape Cross, gravel road to Madisa Camp
Accommodation: Madisa Camp
Our Rating: 8/10
Wildlife: Antelopes, seals, ostriches, birds, zebras
Shopping: Spar, Swakopmund
Food: Breakfast at the hotel, bread, peanut butter, bananas, snacks, potatoes, antelope steak
Entrance to Cape Cross: 150 N$/person + 50 N$/vehicle

Route from Swakopmund via Cape Cross to Madisa Camp (towards Etosha)

Strand Hotel Swakopmund to Cape Cross

We wake up to the sound of the ocean, a wonderful awakening in the soft hotel bed. After a thorough shower, we delight in the hotel's delicious breakfast buffet. Exotic fruits, pancakes, fresh egg dishes, crispy bread… everything our hearts desire. At 9:30 AM, we check out, bid farewell to the very friendly parking attendant, stock up on groceries and water at Spar, and get a faulty tire valve replaced at a gas station. Equipped and ready, we drive along the coast for about 1.5 hours to Cape Cross.

When we are about 2 km from our destination, we notice a strong, peculiar smell. Shortly before reaching the seal colony, the cause of the 'fragrance' becomes evident. In front of us stretches a vast area that thousands of seals call home. The noise level is deafening and the stench is barely tolerable (wearing a mask is recommended!). 250,000 seals live here due to the high plankton content in the Benguela Current, which ensures abundant fish. The seals frolic right before our eyes, crawling around and bellowing loudly. We are in the heart of their realm. The beach is covered with thousands of seals, lying across each other, and in the sea, they drift in the waves in large numbers. Everywhere we look - seals, seals, and more seals. It seems like paradise for these animals. Young seals constantly crawl by and enchant us. With the older seals lying around, we are not always sure if they are still alive. A unique experience. After 20 minutes, we can no longer endure the stench and dash off towards Madisa Camp.

Cape Cross to Madisa Camp

Madisa Camp is ideally situated halfway between Swakopmund and Etosha National Park. The paved roads soon give way to (sometimes very bumpy and rocky) gravel roads. The drive to the camp is marked by the desolate landscapes. Once again, we feel as though we are the only ones on the road, encountering no vehicles for many kilometers. The colors of the vegetation shift from soft yellow to lush green. As we head further north, we frequently see Himba women standing by the road, inviting us (for a fee) to take snapshots and selling souvenirs. What accompanies us is the incredibly persistent stench of the seals. It has permeated our skin, hair, and clothing. Even our camera smells like seals. We quickly change our clothes, planning to wash them later at the camp.

The closer we get to Madisa Camp, the more often we see warning signs for elephants on the road. The camp proves to be a small oasis in the desert with its lively atmosphere and pool. We reserved our spot for one night a few days ago and now park our camper near the reception. Initially, we plan to try out the pool, but the water is too cold for our liking. The owner tells us how elephants occasionally enjoy the pool. Although they regularly build new wooden fences, the elephants quickly trample them down.

We enjoy a cold beer at the bar, discuss our further travel plans, and then start a fire by our camper. Tonight, we have a festive dinner planned. We prepare gratin potatoes with tomato sauce and cheese and antelope steaks. Absolutely delicious. After dinner, we explore the hills around our camp and witness a spectacularly picturesque sunset from one of the hills. Such beautiful sunsets can only be experienced in Africa.

Once again, we fall into our sleeping bags before 8:30 PM. Our sleep is accompanied by the mysterious sounds of various animals... Good night.