Start: Gokyo, 4,750m above sea level
Destination: Cho Oyu Basecamp, 5,199m above sea level
Date: March 24th, 2023
Start in Gokyo: 8:30 a.m.
Distance: 19.59 km (including the return journey)
Duration: 7:10 h (including the return journey)
Elevation gain: 788m ascent, 783m descent
Highest point: 5,199m above sea level
Change in altitude for sleeping: -
Route profile: snow-covered, simple path. The signaling is poor. From Gokyo follow the Ngozumpa glacier parallel.
Overnight stay: Cho Oyu View Lodge and Restaurant, Gokyo (highly recommended)
Weather: fresh snow, sunny, strong wind, from the base camp the clouds gathered quickly
Temperature: up to 12° C
Fauna: -
Food: Hash browns with a fried egg for breakfast, Snickers, masala tea and a cinnamon roll as a snack in Gokyo, momos in the evening

Elevation profile Gokyo - Cho Oyu Base Camp - Gokyo (own tracking via Garmin)

Good morning, Gokyo! What a beautiful day. Well-rested, with a clear blue sky and no rush to move on. After a good night's sleep, I settle into the warm (!) lounge and order hash browns with a sunny-side-up egg for breakfast – a kind of Rosti that promises a substantial calorie and energy boost. Today, my plan is to hike to the Cho Oyu Basecamp with Josh and Giuseppe. After the delicious breakfast, we lace up our boots and hit the trail. The settlement appears sleepy, with a few locals and tourists scattered around. The lodge's dog greets us outside, and after a few pats (Giuseppe is reluctant to leave), we set off. The trail is barely marked. We head towards the plain between Gokyo Ri and the Ngozumpa Glacier, always heading north.

It's an extraordinarily beautiful day. The blue sky and sunshine are deceptive, though; the wind is already gusting past us. Along the way, we encounter a couple we saw in Gokyo yesterday. A bit later, we come across another solo hiker. Otherwise, we see no one else all day. Once again, it's the silence, the mountain peaks surrounding me, and the untouched landscape that captivate me. The path, somewhat snow-covered but straightforward, follows the Ngozumpa Glacier. What a colossal structure. With a length of about 36 km, it is the longest glacier in the Himalayas. Standing high above the glacier, we repeatedly marvel at a portion of its vastness. Ice towers, covered with rocks, reach towards the sky. Soon, we not only spot Cho Oyu but also catch sight of Mount Everest, Lhotse, and the equally impressive peaks of Cholo and Kangchung Peak. We take a short break, Giuseppe unfolds his map, and using a compass, we study the mountain peaks. A heavenly spot on Earth.

The strong wind soon propels me to continue my journey. The path to the base camp seems endless. We climb a few more meters and then reach the plateau. We're unsure if the base camp is actually set up here during the season. Currently, no tents are pitched. The summit of Cho Oyu is in front of us but is already hiding behind the clouds. Nevertheless, its sight is impressive. Who will conquer this (apparently easiest) 8,000-meter peak this year?

I wander around the plateau, snapping a few photos until it gradually becomes too cold. The wind has intensified by now. Somewhere, I run into Giuseppe again. We wait for Josh, who is already leaping over rocks again, enjoy a Snickers, and soon the three of us begin our return journey. The path now seems very entertaining to me. I leap over the stones and would prefer to have only my trail running shoes and a small backpack. Lost in thought, I walk a bit too low at one point and am promptly punished. I have to climb back up all those meters. Not very amusing at nearly 5,000 meters above sea level. But that, too, is soon overcome. Josh is already out of sight again, and Giuseppe is moving a bit slower. I wait for him, and we come back together to the cloud-covered Gokyo. In another lodge with fresh cake, we meet Josh again. We all treat ourselves to a piece. I could have done without the Masala tea (with milk). My stomach begins to rebel shortly afterward. So, I also experienced my first stomach problems (not uncommon at this altitude).

Back in the lodge, I decide to take a shower today. It's the first since my departure from Kathmandu. For about 5.- USD, the gas shower is turned on. Regarding temperature, you can choose between Summer and Winter. I might as well have skipped it altogether. With Winter, the water quickly became 50 °C hot, and with Summer, it dropped back to 8 °C. So, even with a shower, there wasn't much more than a sponge bath. Nevertheless, the hot steam felt good. Back in my 'fresh' clothes, I sit in front of the warm stove in the lounge and look forward to a cozy evening. Chatting, reading, planning the next day, and savoring delicious momos. After studying the map, I've decided to stay in Gokyo for two more nights. I'm in no hurry to move on and am more than on schedule. So, tonight I stay up a bit later than 9:00 PM before drifting into sleep with my hot water bottle and Kindle in hand.