Dingboche - Chukhung

Start: Dingboche, 4,410m above sea level.
Destination: Chukhung, 4,730m above sea level.
Date: March 18, 2023.
Start in Dingboche: 06:55 AM.
Distance: 5.11 km.
Duration: 2:40 h.
Elevation: 430m ascent, 13m descent.
Highest Point: 4,733m above sea level.
Change in elevation for sleeping: +320m.
Trail profile: Clear, well-maintained path to Chukhung.
Accommodation: Khangri Resort, Chukhung.
Weather: Sunny until noon, then clouds moved in rapidly, snowfall in the evening.
Temperature: 10°C, considerably cooler above 5,000m above sea level.
Wildlife: -
Food: Porridge with cinnamon for breakfast in Chukhung, garlic soup and a chapati with peanut butter in the afternoon, noodles with vegetables for dinner.

Chukhung - Chukhung Ri

Start: Chukhung, 4,730m above sea level.
Destination: Chukhung Ri, 5,550m above sea level.
Date: March 18, 2023.
Start in Chukhung: 10:26 AM.
Distance: 6.70 km.
Duration: 4:36 h.
Elevation: 757m ascent, 704m descent.
Highest Point: 5,501m above sea level.
Wildlife: Snowcocks, butterflies.

Waking up several times in the night, headaches and tired when getting up. The altitude troubles me during the night. However, the view from the window compensates for the restless night. Blue sky adorned with light veil-like clouds and mountain peaks showcasing their beauty in the sunlight.

Today, I walk to the settlement of Chukhung, located just over five kilometers north of Dingboche at 4,730m above sea level. Given this weather, I skip breakfast as I settled the costs for the two nights and meals yesterday evening. So, I embark on today's journey, immensely delighted by the fantastic weather. The first forty minutes in the shade are still quite cold. However, as soon as the sun reaches me, it becomes pleasantly warm for hiking. The trail leads with a very slight but constant incline to Chukhung. On the way, I pass the Jerzy Kukuczka Memorial, erected for three young men who tragically lost their lives on the south side of Lhotse. This environment is fantastically beautiful but it is also home to tragic fates.

The path to Chukhung is covered in fresh snow, but orientation is not a problem. I reach Chukhung before 10:00 AM and enter the courtyard of Khangri Resort. A sign points to a bakery, which naturally lures me. Indeed, Matt and Monic are already sitting in the courtyard having breakfast. They have also met Giuseppe, who is now on a day trip to the Island Peak Base Camp. I join them and order breakfast: Porridge with cinnamon. At the next table, a Ukrainian sits and tells us that he is about to set off for the Island Peak Base Camp. His plan is to start the ascent to the Island Peak summit at 01:00 AM tomorrow. Although the weather forecast is not good, he seems optimistic and convinced that he can pull this off with his guide.

I enjoy my breakfast in the sun, check into a room, and then convert my backpack into a light daypack. My next destination is Chukhung Ri (Ri means summit) at 5,550m above sea level. This is again for acclimatization but also to keep myself busy. I still have the entire afternoon. I hope to have good visibility. So, I leave Chukhung and reach a plateau around 11:30 AM. Again, I walk very slowly and pay attention to deep breathing. I can clearly see the Lhotse Nup Glacier and the Imja Tsho Glacier Lake. However, the clouds are already moving in rapidly, and I hurry to get higher. The Ama Dablam and Lhotse are visible at the beginning but then disappear into the clouds. Occasionally, I encounter some hikers. Later on, I even spot several ptarmigans on the trail.

On the ridge, dotted with numerous cairns, the wind becomes stronger. I continue to ascend until the path transitions to rocky terrain. The stones are wet, and on both sides, there's quite a drop. I push on a bit further, needing both hands to progress. At an elevation of 5,501m, I decide to stop, even though the summit of Chukhung Ri is another 49 meters higher. Alone, exhausted, with little ability to concentrate and in these wet conditions I don't feel comfortable climbing any further. I turn around and I’m glad I made this decision. I quickly go back down the same path. The surrounding mountain peaks are now hidden from view, but the vegetation on the way down is interesting, featuring bushes with reddish flowers and sandy paths. Even without a stunning view, it's enjoyable to be on this journey.

By 4:00 PM, after freshening up, I find myself in the bakery next to the resort. The oven is fired up, and once again, I relish the time I have for reading and eavesdropping on the discussions of fellow mountain trekkers. I order a warming garlic soup and a chapati with garlic butter. Meanwhile, my wet socks, after a wash, hang outside on a clothesline. When I retrieve them an hour later, they are rock hard and frozen upright. Dinner is served in the Khangri Resort's lounge. Here, I reunite with Matt, Monic, and Giuseppe. Svenja and David from Germany, whom I met in Dingboche yesterday, join us. I also get to know Joshua from the United States and Alon from Israel, who is planning to climb the Island Peak in the next few days and is waiting for a favorable weather window. The lounge is bustling, creating a cozy and cheerful atmosphere. Today, I opt for a change and order Fried Noodles with Vegetables instead of the usual Dal Bhat. Given the substantial portion, it turns out to be a good choice. We share many stories and have a wonderfully amusing evening. Around 8:00 PM, it's bedtime for me, and I crawl into my sleeping bag with my Kindle and earplugs. Good night!