Start: Monjo 2,832m above sea level
Destination: Namche Bazaar 3,440m above sea level
Date: March 13, 2023
Start in Monjo: 08:42 AM
Distance: 7.08km
Duration: 3 hours and 50 minutes
Elevation Gain: 1,005m ascent, 382m descent
Change in elevation for sleeping: +608m
Trail profile: well-maintained trail with a continuous ascent
Lodging: Mountain View Lodge (lovely family, great room view, good food)
Weather: sunny in the morning, with a cloud cover over Namche in the afternoon
Temperature: up to 16°C in the morning, dropping to single digits in the afternoon and evening
Fauna: yaks, mules, various birds, friendly dogs, horses, butterflies
Flora: hemlock trees, juniper, birch, rhododendron
Food: Tibetan Bread and ginger-lemon-honey tea for breakfast, garlic soup and masala tea for lunch, pizza for dinner

Today, I have a short stage ahead of me, covering just under 7 kilometers with an ascent of 1,005 meters. I continue along the trade route to Namche Bazaar. I turned off my alarm after the first ring and allowed myself to snooze a little longer. Fortunately, I hardly have any jet lag, and I was able to sleep soundly. At 8:00 AM, I headed down to the common area and ordered Tibetan Bread with ginger tea. I had read about Tibetan Bread in travel reports and was excited to taste it for the first time. It’s made from Tsampa (Tibetan barley flour), water, and baking powder, served with honey or jam. It’s airy, sweet, warm, and calorie-rich — a great way to start the day.

The common area gradually filled up with guests and guides. I overheard some uncertainty from another young woman from Germany after she had a conversation with a man who was already on his way back to Lukla. She was questioning whether she had packed enough warm clothes, if her backpack was too heavy, and if she would really need Micro-Spikes. Interactions with people who are returning from the journey can either build great anticipation or sow doubts. I learned that she had spontaneously booked her trip to Nepal and hadn’t familiarized herself with the trail, the altitude, or the distances. I’ll probably never fully understand how some people embark on such a journey without proper preparation. But still I motivated her to go on and told her that she’ll probably get used to carry a heavy backpack.

Tibetan Bread with honey and ginger-lemon-honey tea for breakfast.

After paying for the accommodation, I’m greeted by a clear blue sky outside the door. I start in the shade, but the sun’s rays soon catch up with me, painting the entire surroundings in splendid colors. Surrounded by the lush green of the trees, the beautiful blue of the Dhudh Khosi river, and the singing birds, a warm feeling of contentment spreads within me. What a privilege to be able to move through this stunningly beautiful valley.

Shortly after Monjo, I reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, the highest-altitude national park on Earth. I pay the entrance fee and have my photo taken by a soldier at the gate: I’m the only person, and I enjoy the amusing exchange with the friendly man. In the background, a few men are sitting on folding chairs, giving each other haircuts. With a huge grin on my face, I enter the national park and walk on the paved path through Josalle. The path continues along the Dhudh Koshi river. When the Hillary Bridge comes into view for the first time, a sense of humility washes over me. I’m actually walking on the same paths as the expedition group led by the first ascenders of Mount Everest (and many others who tried before them). Fantastic!

The original Hillary Bridge hangs below a newer structure. The path climbs steeply with several flights of stairs until I reach the bridge. After letting a few porters carrying heavy loads pass, I cross the river high above on the bridge. The sturdy prayer flags flutter in the wind, the sun shines brightly, and the valley reveals its most beautiful side. From this point on, the trail leads through a sandy, rocky path covered with roots through the forest. With this weather, I’m grateful for the shade-providing trees.

I hike slowly and mindfully, trying to take in all the impressions that come my way. Porters, playing Nepali music through small speakers as they engage in strenuous work, tourists having picnics along the way, yaks with light loads coming toward me, mules nimbly leaping down a sandy path, women selling Cola cans and snacks, there’s so much to see, smell, and discover.

After a short water break, I reach a checkpoint just before Namche Bazaar. The police check whether I have all the required permits, note my name, and the duration of my stay in the region. Just a few more meters and curves, and I’m in Namche. The sight of this main hub of the Khumbu region, nestled at 3,440 meters, is stunning. An older couple from Australia is also enjoying the view of the village and chatting with me. They arrived yesterday and plan to continue their journey to the Everest Base Camp tomorrow.

I walk through the alleyways to the Mountain View Lodge, which is located on the hill to the left at the top. I read in a report that this is a good place to stay. In front of the main building, there’s a new addition with a few rooms and a rooftop terrace. I get a room with electricity and a view over Namche. After a quick wash, I go in search of lunch. It’s now early afternoon, and my stomach is growling. At the Alpin Lodge, I’m warmly welcomed by a woman and sit in the wind-protected bar. I’m the only guest, and as large as these lodges and bars are, it must be quite busy during the peak season. I order a Masala tea and garlic soup, said to help with the altitude.

The clouds have rolled in by now, and it’s getting cold. On the way up, I read that a bar here shows films every day. So, at 3:00 PM, I head to the Liquid Bar, where there’s currently a vote for the movie choice. The vote is cast in favor of a National Geographic documentary from the ’90s. All bundled up in my down jacket, we sit ten people in the bar and enjoy the film screening with warm tea. We watch the son of Sir Edmund Hillary attempting to climb Mount Everest via a difficult route. After the screening, all the viewers quickly leave the bar. It’s a shame; I would have liked to discuss what we just watched with someone.

Now, I also take a stroll through the alleyways, visit a store or two (outdoor equipment galore), and eventually take a seat at the Basecamp Café. They serve pizza from the wood-fired oven, which I can’t pass up. The guys who bake and serve the pizza opened the café in October 2022. The big advantage: thanks to the wood oven, it’s comfortably warm inside the café. Well-fed, I hike back up to the Mountain View Lodge. It’s gotten cold now, and I’m wearing my down jacket and hardshell jacket. In my lodge, I sit in the common room and have another cup of tea. The family’s son asks me where I’ve been. I wasn’t aware that it’s customary to dine in the lodge where you’re staying. Somewhere, I also read that not adhering to this rule would triple the cost. However, since I’m staying for two nights, they cut me some slack. In the common room, it’s 10°C. The stove is running, and I’m wearing my down jacket, sipping ginger tea, and enjoying the warmth. After the second cup of tea, I say goodnight. In the chilly basement, I brush my teeth, and I notice that the western-style toilets are now history (hello squat toilet). In my room, the cold shakes me, and I quickly change to snuggle into my sleeping bag. With my Kindle in hand, I doze off at some point. Too late, I realize that my earplugs are in my backpack. Loud howling dogs wake me up in the middle of the night. During the day, so peaceful and never barking, they howl at night. And the dog lying outside my door seems to be the leader, encouraging all the others to howl along. Well, then… goodnight!