My entire journey unfolded rather spontaneously, and it wasn't until February that I booked my flight for March. Numerous questions swirled in my mind during the short preparation period, and I was grateful for the valuable insights I found in blogs, books, videos, and accounts related to the trek. Many questions were posed to me in Kathmandu after my trek and back home as well. I am more than happy to share my experiences here. Feel free to leave a comment or send a message if you have any lingering questions, and I'll gladly address them.

Please note that these are my personal experiences, responses, and assessments. What applies to me may not necessarily apply to you, and the information provided may no longer be current. Before your journey, consult the official websites of Nepal Tourism and decide how you want to shape your trekking adventure in Nepal. One thing is certain: an unforgettable experience awaits you.

As of March 2023

FAQ - Route

From Namche Bazaar onwards, I chose to take the counterclockwise route. This way, you gain altitude a bit more gradually than the Thame-Gokyo route. I found this route to be very scenic and fitting.

Below, you'll find my GPX data. Please note that I've reduced the tracking points, and these are meant to serve as rough reference points. The Three Passes Trek route is marked in red, and my additional hikes are marked in blue.

FAQ - Gear

The dear, dear equipment. Equally a joy and a hassle. I invested numerous hours in finding the optimal combination for three weeks, and I managed quite well. You can find everything I packed here: Three Passes Trek Nepal Gear List.

Again, it's important to note: What's essential varies for everyone. The Kindle was indispensable for me, but a few fewer socks wouldn't have hurt either.

FAQ - Arrival and Departure

I flew from Zurich with Emirates Airline via Dubai to Kathmandu. From Kathmandu Airport, I took a taxi to the hotel. In Kathmandu itself, I walked everywhere, but there are plenty of taxis available. The hotel then arranged a taxi for me to the Domestic Airport (note: domestic flights depart from a different airport next to the international one - be sure to specify "Domestic Airport" to the taxi driver).

The flight with Yeti Airlines to Lukla (the world's most dangerous runway) went smoothly. Although it was delayed by several hours, we were still able to fly. They only approach Lukla Airport visually, so flights are canceled in bad weather or they turn around (which apparently happens often). The trek begins right from the Lukla airport field.

To alleviate air traffic over Kathmandu during the peak season, flights operate from Ramechhap. Even though I booked the flight from Lukla to Kathmandu, my return flight went via Ramechhap. From Ramechhap, you'll need transportation to Kathmandu. The journey takes about 3.5 - 4.5 hours (plan enough time!). The easiest way is if your hotel organizes transportation. There are also local buses, but you might have to wait a bit. I just boarded the plane in Lukla, and when I disembarked in Ramechhap, I asked two women how they were getting to Kathmandu. Their hotel had already arranged a taxi, and I was able to join them (I, of course, contributed to the fare).

FAQ - Costs

• Flights: Zurich - Dubai - Kathmandu and return, Emirates Airlines: USD 1,640

• Flights: Kathmandu - Lukla / Lukla - Ramechhap, Yeti Airlines: USD 180 each

• Tourist visa for Nepal: (obtained at Kathmandu Airport): USD 50 for 30 days (can also be paid in EUR or CHF, exchange rate 1:1)

• Taxi: Airport - Kathmandu: NPR 600 - 800 (depending on negotiation skills)

• Taxi: Ramechhap - Kathmandu: Shared with two others, I paid NPR 450

• Hotel: Nepal Ghar, Kathmandu: CHF 70 - 80/night

• Cash withdrawal: Possible in Kathmandu. Depending on the ATM, I could withdraw up to NPR 21,000 or NPR 41,000 (USD 160 / 280). Regular withdrawal fees from your bank apply. I withdrew USD 1,000 at various ATMs on the first evening. It's not possible to withdraw NPR at home, and you're not allowed to take money out of the country. There are also ATMs in Lukla, Namche Bazaar, and Dingboche, but I wouldn't rely too much on them, as they may not always work. In Kathmandu, I had to try several before successfully withdrawing money.

• Restaurants in Kathmandu: The restaurants in Kathmandu are very affordable. Incredibly delicious food starts at USD 1 (10 pieces of Momos!). I paid USD 9 to USD 18 per restaurant visit, including drinks. Street food is very cheap, and prices drop further away from the tourist district of Thamel.

• Kathmandu Sightseeing: Some attractions in Kathmandu have entrance fees. I visited the following:

  - Buddha Stupa: NPR 400

  - Durbar Square: NPR 1000

  - Swayambhu Stupa: NPR 200

  - Garden of Dreams: NPR 400

  - Ratna Park: NPR 75

How much money do I need on the Three Passes Trek?
I budgeted USD 70/day. On the trek, I ended up spending USD 20 to USD 30/day. This is, of course, individual. I didn't restrict myself when it came to drinks or food. If I wanted 3 liters of hot tea (=Big Pot), I bought it. It could definitely be done more affordably. Showers, Wi-Fi, and electricity are expensive, so I mostly avoided them. You can expect to spend more or less around these costs on the trek. Generally, cash payment is the norm. Credit card payments are rarely possible, and when they are, hefty surcharges apply.

• Permits: For the trek, you need two permits. Only cash is accepted.

  • NPR 2000: Obtainable in Lukla directly on the trail: Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit.

  • NPR 3000: Obtainable in Monjo directly on the trail: Sagarmatha National Park Permit.

• Accommodations: The standard rate is NPR 500 for a double room (which I could always use alone). Sometimes NPR 1000 was charged for two people. In Manjo, I paid NPR 750 for a room.

  Food: The higher you go, the more expensive the food becomes. You can observe the price development over the altitudes through the prices of Dal Bhat or a Snickers. Dal Bhat cost between NPR 600 - NPR 900. A Snickers varied from NPR 250 to NPR 750.

• Below is an example of a menu in Thame. It offered a very extensive selection. Price-wise, we were in the middle to higher range here. Dal Bhat and Momos are often affordable. If you order Dal Bhat, you always get free refills!

• Drinks: Cold water is free until Gorak Shep. For hot water, you pay depending on the bottle size (see 'boiled water' on the menu). I always added a Micropur Forte tablet to cold water.

• Wi-Fi: Costs are incurred after Namche Bazaar. Sometimes they charge it for an hour, for 12, or for 24 hours. If I remember correctly, 24 hours cost NPR 1000. Alternatively, a Nepalese SIM card can be purchased at Kathmandu Airport. Those who had one had reception up to Dingboche. I don't know if there is network coverage around Lobuche and Gokyo.

• Electricity: From Namche Bazaar onwards, this is usually charged as well. In certain teahouses, I was allowed to plug in my phone for free, but from Namche Bazaar onwards, this usually cost something. You either pay a flat rate or for a full phone charge. Expect to pay at least NPR 1000 for charging a power bank.

  Showers: Between NPR 500 to NPR 700.

• Equipment: Can also be bought in Lukla, Namche Bazaar, or partially in Dingboche or Chukhung. Most of it is counterfeit. In Kathmandu, equipment can be rented in the tourist district of Thame.

FAQ - Solo Hiking

I was traveling alone, and two questions are often asked:

• Isn't it dangerous (as a woman)?
  No, as a woman, I always felt safe in the Himalayan mountains as well as in Kathmandu. There was no situation where I felt uncomfortable being alone.

  On the Three Passes Trek, I quickly struck up conversations with other travelers, especially with fellow solo trekkers. I first met Matt and Monic on the bus to the airplane in Kathmandu, and I kept bumping into them along the way. From Dingboche onwards, we were staying in the same lodges, even though we weren't trekking together during the day. In Dingboche, I also met Giuseppe, and in Chukhung, I met Josh. They all had similar itineraries, so we enjoyed trekking together while maintaining our individual paces. Of course, it's better not to be alone in the mountains! It was reassuring to know that Josh, Giuseppe, Matt, and Monic were also on the same route, and if anything happened, they would have to pass by me. We waited for each other at the mountain passes, and we traversed the glaciers together. So, there's absolutely nothing against traveling alone as a woman. Do it!

• Do I need to hire a guide?
  When I was traveling in March 2023, it was still allowed to trek solo. At that time, authorities were debating, and from April 2023, they introduced a rule that solo trekking is not allowed in certain mountainous regions in Nepal. However, there was an exception for the Khumbu region. I'm not aware of the current status, so please check with the Tourism Office (Nepal Tourism Board). My recommendation: if it is allowed, you feel secure in the mountains, you can plan your trek realistically, and you can assess yourself correctly, there is no reason to hire a guide. While I don't want to undermine the importance of guides, I don't consider it necessary. The trekking paths are straightforward if you are sure-footed and comfortable walking on snow. I heard some stories from guides that made me glad I was trekking alone.

• Disadvantages of Solo Trekking:

  • A guide can tell you a lot about the country and its people along the way. However, if you approach lodge owners openly, they are also very willing to share such information.

• Advantages of Solo Trekking:

  • Determine your own daily schedule (when to start, when to take breaks, etc.).

  • Choose your own route (including afternoon and day trips. I heard of guides denying their clients the opportunity to take an afternoon walk).

  • Select your own lodge.

  • The possibility to spontaneously stay an extra night somewhere.

  • Walk at your own pace.

  • Only need to take care of yourself.

  • Engage deeply with the route and surroundings instead of following someone.

  • More budget-friendly.

  • Consciously bring only what you need. People with guides and porters often let them carry stacks of thick books, white sneakers for the evening, etc. Totally impractical!

FAQ - Altitude Sickness

The University Hospital Zurich has published a contribution on altitude sickness here (it is in German).

Whether or not one develops altitude sickness is individual and can affect someone on one trip and not on the next. I followed the following advice:

• Walk very slowly.

• Sleep no more than 300-400 meters higher than the previous night.

• Take acclimatization days in Namche Bazaar, Dingboche, Chukhung, and Gokyo, spending at least two nights in each.

• Sleep at a lower altitude at night than the daytime ascent.

• Drink plenty of fluids (avoid alcohol).

The altitude began to affect me from Namche Bazaar onwards. I woke up with headaches every day, which would subside at some point during the day, sometimes with the help of headache tablets, sometimes on their own. I noticed a slight lack of oxygen already during the ascent to Namche, despite walking very slowly from Lukla. Apart from the headaches, I felt fine until Gorak Shep.

On the night in Gorak Shep (5,207m above sea level), I woke up at midnight feeling like my head was in a vice. Extreme pain, and the slightest movement felt like my brain was exploding. Fortunately, I eventually fell asleep again. In the morning, I was correspondingly tired and still in pain. The way up to Kala Patthar was quite a torture. Extremely strong headaches reminiscent of the time of my chronic migraines, tingling arms, and then an icy cold that added to the discomfort. However, when the first rays of sunlight touched me and I stood on the summit, everything was put into perspective, and I had an extremely energetic rest of the day.

In Namche Bazaar, I bought Diamox. This medication can help reduce the likelihood of getting sick. Ideally, it should be taken prophylactically, but I carried the 20 tablets back home unused. I didn't take it because the medication could apparently mask the symptoms of altitude sickness. I thought I would rather consciously feel when it's not going well to be able to react. However, I met a few people who had taken the medication prophylactically.

Without a medical background, I wouldn't make any recommendations. I did well with the above advice and would try it again on another high-altitude journey.

FAQ - TheThree Passes Trek

Season

For the Three Passes Trek, there are two main seasons: April/May and September to November (the same peak seasons as for the Everest Base Camp Trek). The fall season often predicts better visibility and warmer days. I had three weeks of vacation in the spring and consciously wanted to avoid the peak season starting in April. So, I embarked on the journey from March 12 to March 30. For me, it was the perfect time: the lodges were never crowded (they were never fully booked), and I was often alone on the trails for hours (except between Lobuche and Everest Base Camp). It was a bit unfortunate that the weather worsened every afternoon. I didn't experience enchanting sunsets or starry nights. As I learned, they had very little snow in the winter months of 2022/2023. The snow came in the spring: it snowed every night from Namche Bazaar onwards.

Electricity

Travel adapter: I didn't have one with me. I could use my Swiss charger, but the slots for the plugs are slightly wider in Nepal. Accordingly, I had to secure my charger each time to make charging work. If you don't want to improvise, bring a universal adapter or buy one in Kathmandu. More information: https://world-power-plugs.com/nepal.

Charging: Depending on the lodge and the number of people, it can get a bit tight with the charging stations. In Namche and Phortse, I had one in my room, but later you had to plug in your phone in the common area or the kitchen.

Cost: You have to pay for charging. See details under Costs.

My recommendation: Bring a good power bank (Note: It must go in your carry-on on the plane!) and charge it in Kathmandu. Charge your phones while it's still free (usually not the case after Namche, and then it costs around USD 3 - 7). I only used the power bank when charging would have cost money. I kept my phone in flight mode most of the time. With a full power bank, I managed, and I only had to recharge it back in Namche.

Wi-Fi/ Network Reception

The Wi-Fi in the lodges is decent but not the fastest. It was sufficient for sending messages, though. I only used Wi-Fi a few times (and it comes at a cost). Alternatively, you can buy a Nepalese SIM card at the airport in Kathmandu. People with such cards had network coverage up to Dingboche. There might not be coverage around Chukhung, Lobuche, and Gorak Shep. Personally, I decided that I didn't want to be online too often and, therefore, chose not to buy one.

Wi-Fi costs: Refer to the details under Expenses.

Sanitary Facilities / Hygiene

Toilets: While Western-style toilets are the norm in Europe, the standard in the settlements of the Khumbu Valley is squat toilets. From Namche Bazaar onwards, squatting is the way to go. Men and women use the same toilets, and there is a water bucket for flushing. You need to bring your own toilet paper and dispose of it in the designated bin. Toilet paper and hand sanitizer were always in one pocket. Individual rolls of toilet paper can be purchased in every lodge. Bring a ZipLock bag to keep them clean in your backpack. Hygiene was generally good, except for one lodge in Gorak Shep.

Showers: Showers are available and often come in the form of a regular shower or a "bucket shower." In the latter, a bucket of water is heated, and you use it to wash yourself. I tried a gas shower in Gokyo, but since I could only choose between winter or summer settings (7°C to 50°C), the experience was short and unnecessary. I had a small soap from Dr. Bronner and wet wipes, allowing me to have a quick wash every evening. A proper shower awaited me after 17 days at the hotel in Kathmandu.

My recommendation: Always keep a small hand sanitizer and some toilet paper (which can be repurchased) readily available in a pocket. For daily hygiene, bring wet wipes and a natural detergent.

Food / Drink

All lodges offer more or less the same menu, with variations in selection. Sometimes the choices are limited, and other times they are more diverse (see example above in the photos). Throughout the entire journey, I refrained from eating meat and purified cold water with micropurForte tablets.

Typical foods & my favorites were:
- Breakfast: Porridge, Tibetan Bread, Chapati, Pancake, Hash Browns (in Gokyo, very tasty!)
- Snacks: Snickers, peanut cookies, coconut cookies, cinnamon rolls, Chocolate Roll (baked Snickers), popcorn
- Main dishes: Sherpa Stew, Momos, Dal Bhat (you always get free refills), rice with vegetable curry, noodles or rice with vegetables
- Drinks: Cold water is free (except in Gorak Shep), hot water, tea, etc., cost. Recommendation: Order a Big Pot (3 liters) of hot water upon arrival. It is served in a thermos. Drink/fill 2 liters into your own water bottle and drop in an electrolyte tablet you brought along. Before sleeping, fill the last liter into your water bottle. This way, you have a hot water bottle for the night, and the next morning, you already have something to drink.

Book Recommendations

Here are a few books centered around the theme of mountains or set in mountainous environments that I recommend. I don't know if all the books have an English translation.

Non-fiction / Autobiographies / Biographies

• Alpensolo by Ana Zirner

• Bergfieber by Daniela Schwegler

• Beyond The Mountain by Steve House

• Cho Oyu by Reinhold Messner

• Der nächste Schritt by Ueli Steck

• Der Wächter des Matterhorns by Kurt Lauber

• Grenzgängerin by Evelyne Binsack

• Himmelwärts by Daniela Schwegler

• High by David Lama

• Into thin air by Jon Krakauer

• Matterhorn by Kurt Lauber

• Nanga Parbat by Reinhold Messner

• -Reinhold Messner by Michele Petrucci

• Südwand by Hansjörg Auer

• Straight Up: Himalayan Tales of the Unexpected by Steve Berry

• Strasse der Achttausender by Hajo Bergmann

• The Impossible Climb by Mark Synnott

• Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya by Lonely Planet

• Trekking Everest by Stefan Schüler

• 2610m.ü.M. by Irene Wirthlin

• 8000+: Aufbruch in die Todeszone by Ueli Steck

Novel

• Acht Berge by Paolo Cognetti

• Bergland by Jarka Kubsova

• Berghau by Angelika Waldis

• Das finstere Tal by Thomas Willmann

• Das Glück des Wolfes by Paolo Cognetti