Start: Gokyo, 4,750m above sea level
Destination: Renjo La Pass, 5,417m above sea level // Thame, 3,776m above sea level
Date: 26th March 2023
Start in Gokyo: 07:00 AM
Distance: 21.97 km
Duration: 8 hours and 17 minutes
Elevation Gain: 897m ascent, 1,869m descent
Highest Point: 5,417m above sea level
Elevation Change for Sleeping: -974m
Trail Profile: Snow-covered path, steady ascent to the pass followed by a steep descent – manageable with crampons
Accommodation: Tara Lodge, Thame (recommended)
Weather: Sunny, icy cold and very strong wind on the pass, clouds rolled in during the afternoon
Temperature: Up to 12°C
Fauna: Snowcocks near Gokyo Lake, birds of prey, yaks
Flora: After the Renjo La Pass, vegetation turns green again
Food: Porridge with cinnamon, Snickers, Shepherds Stew at the River Side Lodge & Restaurant in Dingjung, Momos in Thame

Elevation profile Gokyo - Renjo La Pass - Thame (own tracking via Garmin)

After another good and restful night, I sit down the common area with a bowl of hot porridge, my morning favorite. Today marks the final pass of the Three Passes Trek. It feels a bit surreal that my journey up here will soon come to an end. After filling my water bottle with hot water and snapping a photo with the two very friendly hosts (mother & son), I lace up my hiking boots. Here we go!

The trail to Renjo La Pass follows the right side of Gokyo Lake and then ascends to the right. Along the way, I first hear and then spot chattering snowcocks. The sun is shining, and the surroundings once again reveal their beauty. Josh is already ahead, while Giuseppe and I follow. The ascent is steady, and soon the terrain changes from rocks to snow.

I walk as always very slowly, constantly looking around to catch glimpses of Gokyo, the Ngozumpa Glacier, Makalu, and Mount Everest. Even after 15 days up here, I find myself pinching sometimes. What a privilege to be surrounded by such natural beauty.

A bit below the pass, I lose my way for a moment but, after an additional descent and ascent, I find the trail again. The pass's prayer flags are visible now, fluttering in the wind. The last few meters require a lot of energy, and breathing is only superficially possible. For the final steps, Josh and Giuseppe, who are already at the top, cheer me on with applause. We've become quite a fantastic trio.

The sun is shining, and I stand on Renjo La Pass. The area I've traversed in the last two weeks lies at my feet. Wow! I'd love to sit up here for hours and just marvel. However, the wind is extremely strong, and I feel freezing cold. I quickly need to get moving. For the descent, I put on crampons. My fingers feel like they're freezing off. I need to move fast. We take some photos and turn our backs on the panorama. Goodbye Everest!

The descent is snow-covered, but with crampons, it's manageable. No more 8,000-meter peaks are visible now, but a beautiful panorama with frozen lakes and snow-covered peaks unfolds. I continue to walk slowly, even though the altitude no longer bothers me. I want to be on these trails for as long as possible. Soon, I can take off the crampons and walk even on sand. The sun is warming again, the wind is weaker on this side, and it's perfect hiking weather! I rapidly lose altitude, and the nature gradually turns green again.

I walk through the settlement of Lunden and stop at a lodge in Dingjung for lunch. And who is sitting there: Josh and Giuseppe! I order a Sherpa Stew (a hearty soup with lots of vegetables and potatoes), and we enjoy our lunch break. The host tells us how they live up here year-round, cultivate potatoes, keep a yak and a milk cow, and how devastating the earthquake in 2015 was for them. They had to sleep in tents for three months because all the houses were reduced to nothing. The father recounts his experiences trekking with Reinhold Messner many years ago. Impressive stories.

With replenished energy reserves, we start our final stretch. We aim to reach Thame. Originally, I planned to do this in two days, but since bad weather is still predicted, I'm trying to reschedule my flight from Lukla. The path to Thame resembles a simple hike, passing through settlements, potato fields, stupas, altars, and mani stones, always following the river. Some new rockslides are visible, presumably from the earthquake. In the late afternoon, I stand above Thame, a small settlement at the foot of Kongde Ri. We opt for the Cho Oyu Lodge. Giuseppe indulges in a bucket shower (a bucket of warm water), I do a quick wash-up, and then I enjoy tea and reading in the common area. For dinner, we have momos, and we chat into the evening. A very beautiful day comes to an end. Already somewhat nostalgic, I go to bed. Tomorrow, the circle closes, and I will be back in Namche Bazaar.