Annina Berweger

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Three Passes Trek Nepal Day 14: Gokyo - Gokyo Ri

Gokyo - Cho Oyu Base Camp - Gokyo (own tracking via Garmin)

Gokyo - Gokyo Ri -Circumnavigation of Gokyo Lake - Gokyo (own tracking via Garmin)

Start: Gokyo, 4,750m above sea level
Destination: Gokyo Ri, 5,371m above sea level
Date: 25th March 2023
Start in Gokyo: 08:44 AM
Distance: 8.04 km (round trip)
Duration: 4 hours and 8 minutes
Elevation Gain: 723m ascent, 701m descent
Highest Point: 5,371m above sea level
Elevation Change for Sleeping: -
Trail Profile: Simple
Accommodation: Cho Oyu View Lodge and Restaurant, Gokyo (highly recommended)
Weather: Sunny with strong wind and cloudiness around noon
Temperature: Up to 15°C
Flora: Shrubs around the lake
Food: Hash Browns with fried eggs for breakfast, Dal Bhat in the evening

Elevation profile Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Gokyo Lake - Gokyo (own tracking via Garmin)


Gokyo, I truly appreciate you! Sleeping at the Cho Oyu View Lodge at 4,750m above sea level is a delightful experience. It's amazing what a few hundred meters in elevation can do! The lodge offers delicious meals, the family is incredibly friendly, and now, a fantastically beautiful day awaits me. After yesterday's longer trek to the Cho Oyu Base Camp, today's plan is more relaxed. I aim to conquer Gokyo Ri, the local peak. Since the Hash Browns were so tasty yesterday, I order them again for breakfast, ensuring my energy reserves are replenished. Under a blue sky, I start my hike around 09:00 AM. Zigzagging up Gokyo Ri, I feel good but must maintain a slow pace due to the altitude of around 5,000m above sea level. One almost forgets about it, but shortness of breath during quicker ascents quickly serves as a reminder.

At some point, I encounter Giuseppe and Josh coming down, they've already reached the summit. Soon, I reach the top myself and, once again, am left speechless. A panoramic view unfolds, featuring four of the world's fourteen highest peaks: Cho Oyu to my left, Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. Majestic. The way Mount Everest towers above all the other peaks is remarkably visible from this perspective. I take photos, perch on a rock, and enjoy the view bundled up against the strong wind. A crow (or mountain crow?) flutters through the air, prayer flags dance in the wind, and I am once again grateful for the privilege of being here.

From this vantage point, Gokyo's position hugging the edge of the Ngozumpa Glacier becomes apparent. Clouds slowly roll in. Above the sea of clouds, I try to absorb the atmosphere before beginning the descent. A sunset from up here must be enchanting, although not worthwhile in this weather.

Back down, I opt for a stroll around the lake. Passing a small altar adorned with prayer flags, candles, incense, and money, I soon find myself on the opposite shore. Ice floes float in the water, and a sandy beach invites lingering. If not for the strong wind, it would be the perfect time for sunbathing. The circuit around the lake is beautiful, offering a different perspective on Gokyo and the imposing Arakam Tse mountain.

Returning to Gokyo, I witness someone enjoying a refreshing swim in the lake. Tempting as it is, I've read that Gokyo Lake is considered a sacred waterbody, and bathing is strongly discouraged. So, I content myself with a cold wash-up. Soon, a yellow helicopter thunders through the air as day tourists begin their journey back home. Inside the lodge, the common area has warmed up thanks to the large windows. I spend the afternoon sipping 3 liters of tea, writing in my journal, studying maps, and reading.

For dinner, Josh and Giuseppe join me again in the common area. Matt and Monic have already moved on today, crossing the Renjo La Pass. They rescheduled their flight forward due to poor weather forecasts. My flight to Lukla is still five days away. Considering the potential for flight cancellations in bad weather, resulting in being stranded for several days, I may also need to reschedule. However, I'll wait until tomorrow to make a decision.

Since another (and final!) pass awaits me tomorrow, I indulge in a delicious Dal Bhat for dinner. We share our experiences of the day and then retire to bed early. I look forward to tackling the third pass tomorrow but also feel a tinge of melancholy. My time up here is slowly coming to an end.

Gokyo Lake

Gokyo Ri

Cho Oyu in the background

Breakfast with energy. Hash browns with fried egg

Way to Gokyo Ri

Fantastic view of Gokyo Lake

Peak of Gokyo Ri

Mount Everest, 8,848m a.s.l. : // Nuptse, 7,861m a.s.l. // Lhotse, 8,516m a.s.l // Makalu, 8,481ma.s.l.

Mount Everest, 8’848m a.s.l. : // Nuptse, 7’861m a.s.l. /./ Lhotse, 8’516m a.s.l.

Looking down from Gokyo Ri

Mount Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Mount Makalu, Arakam Tse

Gokyo Ri, 5,371m above sea level

Arakam Tse, 6,423m above sea level

Macchermo Peak, 6,017m above sea level

Infinitely impressive: Mount Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse in the background of the Ngozumpa glacier

Cho Oyu, 8,188m above sea level // Gyachung Kang, 7,952m above sea level

Mount Everest, 8,188m a.s.l. // Nuptse, 7,861m a.s.l. // Lhotse, 8,516m a.s.l.

Gokyo Ri, 5,371m above sea level

Gokyo in front of the mighty Ngozumpa Glacier

Altar am Gokyo See

Candles in front of an altar

Gokyo Lake with Gokyo on the opposite shore

Arakam Tse, 6,423m above sea level

Gokyo Ri and Gokyo Lake

Gokyo Lake

Gokyo, 4,750m above sea level

Day tourists are flying out again

Cozy afternoon in the living room

Refreshment for tomorrow's pass crossing: Dal Bhat